This refers to one of the globe's largest interconnected coral reef networks, yet it remains largely unrecognized by many.
A retired German geographer relocated to Sablayan, a municipality on Mindoro island, following the 1991 Mount Pinatubo eruption. Aside from helping survive victims, he discovered an enchanting underwater world nearby.
"There was 60-meter visibility — astounding!" Gebhardt, 68, shared with CNN Travel, reminiscing his first dive. "I spotted hammerhead sharks, Napoleon wrasse, and sea turtles swimming past a coral wall."
The coastal Apo Reef Natural Park extends over 13 square miles (approximately 33 square kilometers), making it the second-largest continuous coral reef system worldwide, following the Great Barrier Reef in Australia, per UNESCO.
This underwater treasure trove teems with marine life, housing 530 fish species and 400 types of coral.
Gebhardt, now residing in Germany with his wife, Klaudia, can't get enough of Apo. "We return annually," he expresses passionately. "It remains extraordinary."
An environmental triumph
At the start of Gebhardt's diving journeys in Apo Reef during the early 1990s, its beauty was evident, yet it required assistance.
Despite being a marine reserve, dynamite and cyanide fishing misused the reef, leading to coral damage and bleaching.
Enforcement was challenging, as Apo rangers lacked patrol boats at that time.
"Underwater explosions echoed, and your eyes stung from cyanide vapors," Gebhardt recalls.
Concerned, Gebhardt and passionate local advocates like the Sablayan Municipal Administration and Pandan Island Resort pioneer — a sustainable eco-dive resort adjacent to the reef — lobbied the Philippines' Department of Environmental and Natural Resources (DENR) to boost defenses.
In 1996, Apo Reef and its surrounding waters were declared a protected natural park. Later, in 2007, a no-take zone was established, prohibiting resource exploitation within the park or its buffer zone. Apo Reef Natural Park now shares the distinction of being the Philippines' second-largest no-take zone.
Krystal Dayne Villanada, the Apo Reef Natural Park's protected area superintendent, underlines two breakthroughs: boat acquisition and ranger competence expansion.
"Efficient enforcement and monitoring in the area have improved with the acquisition of watercraft," Villanada shared with CNN Travel.
"Moreover, rangers received comprehensive training, including not just law enforcement but also biodiversity monitoring, leading to quality data utilized for formulating conservation strategies."
The DENR also implemented guidelines on sustainable diving, banned single-use plastics, and set visitor quotas to minimize tourism's impact.
As a result, Apo Reef was bestowed the Marine Conservation Institute's prestigious Platinum Blue Park Award in 2022. It's also under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Persisting difficulties
Though protection has bolstered, challenges persist.
"I've seen positive transformations, nevertheless, more action is needed," a dive master at Pandan Island Resort, Jan Sidney “Sid” Mahusay, said to CNN Travel.
Mahusay pointed out the need for increased enforcement efforts due to underfunded rangers. "Some illegal fishing still occurs," he revealed, having witnessed line traps, hook and line, fishing nets, spearfishing, compressors, and more.
Villanada also wished for more support for rangers. "Rangers are the heart of this operation," she says. "They deserve improved wages, better living conditions, and secure tenure in their positions."
Furthermore, Mahusay highlights the meteorological concerns, such as typhoons affecting the shallow areas and potentially damaging the corals.
Gebhardt concurs, "Typhoons can be destructive," he admits.
Societal benefits
Apo Reef has spawned new opportunities for Filipinos, becoming a source of employment, Mahusay noted, sharing his personal experiences.
Before venturing into diving, he was a rice and corn farmer with no prior experience in the sea. In 2015, he learned about a job opening as a dive master at Pandan Island Resort and jumped at the chance.
"I was underequipped but stuck with it. It's an awe-inspiring reef, teeming with marine life and brilliant coral," he revealed.
Now, he leads visitors through Apo's wonders and takes pride in showcasing the reef.
"It creates jobs for boatmen, resort staff, cooks, and dive specialists," Mahusay explains. "Educating residents to protect the reef instead of exploiting it."
Villanada believes the fishing community has also benefited positively.
"Apo Reef's biodiversity spills over, providing fish and coral larvae to neighboring municipal waters, serving as fishing grounds for local communities," she says.
Moreover, she highlights the Samahnan ng Matyagang Mangingisda (Diligent Fishermen’s Organization) project, comprising over 30 engaged fishermen working together to develop eco-friendly enterprises, including mangrove boardwalk construction for eco-tourism.
"The Samahan ng Matyagang Mangingisda is handling the project, which serves as an alternative source of income for them, thereby lessening the strain on marine resources," she mentions.
'In Awe of Nature'
Both Mahusay and Gebhardt hold numerous recollections of diving in Apo Reef.
During one dive, Gebhardt vividly recalls a manta ray gliding overhead, backlit by sunlight. Another time, he was surrounded by countless schooling mackerels.
"The experience is always top-notch," Gebhardt remarks, returning to Apo Reef every winter. "These days, I prefer diving around Apo Island, where the corals are the most vibrant and colorful."
For the daring, sites like Ego Wall and Shark Airport present thrilling experiences.
Ego Wall, famed for its sheer drop-off plunging 60 meters, tests divers' courage and skill. It rewards them with a breathtaking coral garden and barracuda sightings.
"When diving here, you forget your own self-esteem because you're so enchanted by nature," Mahusay remarks.
Meanwhile, Shark Airport is a sandy stretch of reef popular among sharks, who often halt to sunbathe.
A notable attraction is Mabuti, meaning "excellent" in Tagalog.
"It's terrific – that plain and simple, so we named it Mabuti for us, for the Filipino people," Mahusay explains.
Beyond Diving
Diving may be the main attraction, but an Apo Reef visit provides additional activities.
Snorkeling along the shallow coral gardens uncovers a spectrum of marine life, from parrotfish to reef sharks.
A short hike on Apo Island leads to an antique lighthouse, offering panoramic vistas of the reef and open sea.
"It's a fantastic spot for photographing the reef's turquoise lagoons and white sand beaches, especially with a drone," says Mahusay.
Planning Your Trip
Apo Reef's isolated location necessitates some effort to reach, helping maintain it from excessive tourism.
Just 2,793 people visited in 2023, a significant drop from the peak of 7,586 in 2017.
Approximately a dozen dive resorts, liveaboards, and basic guesthouses in the area venture to the reef for day trips or overnight excursions.
According to regulations, tourists cannot explore the natural park without an authorized guide.
The ideal time to visit is during the dry season, from December to May, when seas are calm and visibility is optimum.
Certified divers of all ability levels are welcomed, although some parts of the reef demand more expertise.
"Apo Reef is often subject to solid currents," Gebhardt notes. "Even at 20 meters, you can see plenty, but the coral walls plummet even further."
The primary consideration is that visitors treat the natural surroundings with respect.
As Mahusay states: "Preserving the reef is crucial for future generations to appreciate this remarkable place."
The protection measures for Apo Reef have been successful, leading to it earning the Marine Conservation Institute's Platinum Blue Park Award in 2022 and being under consideration as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Despite the improvements, challenges remain, such as the need for increased enforcement due to underfunded rangers and meteorological concerns like typhoons affecting shallow areas and potentially damaging corals.
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