The MINISCULE ISLAND, strategically positioned between the continents of Europe and Asia.
The European side juts out like a fingernail over the Bosphorus Strait, nearly touching but not quite embracing its Asian counterpart. The strait itself is merely 700 meters narrow at its narrowest point, perpetually keeping the two continents an arm's length apart, much akin to Adam reaching out to God in Michaelangelo's "Creation of Man."
This small stretch of water serves as a bridge connecting the tiny Sea of Marmara to the vast expanse of the Black Sea. Upon this watery divide, a humble rock island has been inhabited for nearly as long as the city itself, acting as a vital link between the East and the West.
Today, it is known as Kız Kulesi or Maiden's Tower, and throughout its 2,500-year history, it has served various roles. Built initially as a customs post in 410 BCE, it has since functioned as a fortress, a royal residence, a lighthouse, a cholera hospital, a radar station, a cyanide storage facility, and a self-proclaimed "republic of poetry" for writers.
For most of its existence, the tower has been a mysterious presence in the heart of the Bosphorus, a beacon the city could only gaze upon but never visit. According to architect Han Tümertekin, "It was a place the city looked towards, from both Europe and Asia, but could not reach."
In the 21st century, the island has been opened to the public as a tourist attraction, offering visitors a glimpse into the city's rich past. Fully restored and renovated, Maiden's Tower welcomed visitors once again in March 2024.
A Global Hub
Visitors begin their journey at bustling Karaköy Pier on the European side, the second busiest city for international arrivals in 2024, with an estimated 23 million visitors, as per Euromonitor International data.
Many of these visitors will make their way to the Golden Horn, where they can indulge in seafood delicacies and socialize at local bars, while observing the boats sailing by beneath the iconic Galata Bridge and marveling at the Rüstem Pasha Mosque.
"Each year, around 30,000 ships traverse the strait," explains historian Saffet Emre Tonguc. "It is one of the busiest straits in the world."
On a sunny September Saturday, CNN embarks on a scenic boat ride to the Maiden's Tower, located at the southern end of the Bosphorus, just a short distance from the Üsküdar district on the Asian side.
Upon disembarking, we climb the newly built internal stairs of the tower, filling the observation platform with cameras held high, anxious to capture a piece of history.
Symbol of the City
Istanbul Maiden Tower
Initially constructed as a customs post, the tower stood guard at the entrance to collect taxes, much like the Statue of Liberty at the entrance to New York Harbor.
Today, the Black Sea remains significant due to its petroleum and natural gas reserves, making the tower a strategic point like New York's Lady Liberty.
"The area [around the tower] is particularly dangerous," says private tour guide Barış Partal. "In the past, the Greek traders wanted to pass through the Bosporus to gather gold, silver, and copper from the Georgian mountains. Now it is a thriving petroleum source."
The Greek myth of Jason and the Argonauts is closely linked to this area, says Partal, though the story has been transposed to a different location.
In the 12th century, the tower was reconstructed from stone during the Byzantine emperor Manuel I Comnenus' reign, and a chain was stretched from the tower to a secondary fortress to control ship traffic.
After the Ottoman conquest of 1453, the wood tower was fortified by Sultan Mehmed II and later repurposed as a lighthouse with the addition of a lantern on the northern side of the tower.
"The waters [near the tower] are shallow but treacherous," says Partal. "In the 1830s, it even served as a quarantine station during a cholera outbreak."
The Tower of Legend
For a short spell, in the 1980s, the Turkey Maritime and Port Authority used the tower as a cyanide storage facility, but something far more poetic took place on the fateful day of May 1992. According to legend, writers declared the Maiden's Tower a "republic of poetry," using the tower to surround themselves in creative inspiration.
The "jewel of the Bosphorus" is no stranger to legends, though. Most famously, it is said that a king was warned by a fortune teller that his daughter would meet her end by a snake's bite. Desperate to protect her, he constructed a tower and sent her food baskets, but a snake disguised as fruit ultimately took her life.
Another legend tells a tragic tale of a lover named Leander, who, every night, would swim to the tower to meet his beloved, only to drown one fateful night. Stricken with grief, his beloved stabbed herself upon learning of his death. It is for this reason that the tower is sometimes called "Leander's Tower."
There's an Urban myth suggesting the Maiden's Tower and the Galata Tower, famous Istanbul landmarks, share a romantic bond. According to Tonguc, they're an ideal pair, as he gazes out over the cityscape.
Steel and Stone
The recent refurbishment is just one of numerous alterations and improvements made to the castle and tower throughout its existence. It's endured numerous catastrophes, such as earthquakes, fires, and even saw the island it stands on reinforced with massive stones in the 1940s during restoration works.
This latest renovation aims to bolster the structure and unveil once more, the original architectural features that were hidden beneath 20th-century modifications.
Upon disembarking the boat, exploring the castle, the observation deck, and the island itself, there isn't much else one can do at the tower apart from grab a bite at the modest on-site cafe. An hour's time spent here, and then, as the boat sets off back to Europe, close by, the island is left eerily quiet until the next vessel arrives.
Despite the cost, it serves as a tranquil escape from the commotion of the city and offers an exclusive vantage point of this legendary city.
A visit isn't cheap, as is the case with many of Istanbul's top tourist attractions. The entry fee costs 27 euros, with an additional 5 euros for the boat ride (around $33 in total). However, with an Istanbul Museum Pass, priced at 105 euros ($109), one can gain entry for free.
Tonguc commends the restoration as a crucial move to preserve a building that was slowly deteriorating. He states, "Istanbul's historical icons were crafted with such strength," to withstand calamities like earthquakes, floods, and fires for centuries.
"They're in great shape due to their design to last for generations, not just a few years."
Kiskulesi.gov.tr
Visitors on their way to the Maiden's Tower might consider taking a boat ride along the Bosphorus, offering them an opportunity to appreciate the busy waterway and its many ships. (travel)
Boasting a rich history, the Maiden's Tower has served various roles throughout the centuries, from a customs post to a self-proclaimed "republic of poetry" for writers. (travel)
