Siargao, renowned as the "surfing mecca of the Philippines," is experiencing a period of transformation.
They struck it rich. These trailblazing wave adventurers spread the buzz about the region's abundance of tubular barrels, luring surf lovers to General Luna, the coastal town serving as the entryway to numerous Siargao attractions.
In the time that followed, American outlaw surfer Mike Boyum is rumored to have discovered the island's renowned Cloud 9 break, while surf photography legend John Callahan captured figures like Kevin Davidson, Evan Slater, and Taylor Knox attempting the muscular waves.
Today, the island's captivating energy - a blend of pristine beauty, community, and excitement - continues to entice guests to the southeastern Philippines, with visitors numbers rapidly escalating each year.
Tourism has skyrocketed from about 13,600 international arrivals in 2012 to nearly 54,000 in 2023. Domestic travel has exploded too, escalating from almost 124,000 visitors in 2018 to over 476,000 in 2023 - a staggering spike for an island with approximately 150,000 inhabitants.
Additional developments are on the horizon, such as a cruise terminal, airport expansions, and the emergence of larger resorts.
"It's wonderful to see Siargao gain recognition, but it's essential to preserve the island's natural beauty and tight-knit community," conveys Wemar Bonono, a 28-year-old pro surfer and the co-founder of Pacifico Surf Bayay, Bigwish Surf School, Pacifico Surf School, Swell Snackbar, and The Sun Crew charity.
"We've witnessed what has transpired on other island destinations. So long as we prioritize sustainability, eco-friendly initiatives, and responsible travel, Siargao can flourish without losing its allure."
Bonono is part of a growing contingent of residents committed to shielding Siargao's essence while inviting like-minded vacationers to share in its beauty through sustainable stays, volunteer initiatives, and immersive cultural experiences.
These are a few of the dedicated individuals working to maintain the island's enchantment.
A community-driven lodging vision
Ian Sermonia and Mike Medina, high school friends from Manila, started their venture in 2013 to establish a surf resort blending their fondness for hospitality and surfing.
"After scouring the Philippines for the perfect location for Harana, we fell head over heels for Siargao," Sermonia, the president of the Siargao Tourism Operators Association, shares with CNN Travel.
"The island welcomed us with open arms."
Upon the launch of Harana Surf Resort in 2015, Sermonia and Medina became the first Manila-based Filipinos to own a surf resort there. Despite being newcomers from the city, they endeavored to engage with the local community.
"Most of the initial resorts were owned by foreigners who respected the local culture and merely wished to enjoy island life - surfing, spending time in nature, and indulging in the waves," explains 44-year-old Sermonia.
That harmonious foundation of minimal living and sustainability in the island's burgeoning hospitality sector resonated with the two men, offering a striking contrast to accounts from other popular local destinations.
"My childhood vacation spot was Boracay," he reminisces. "But then we watched it veer off course. We were acutely conscious of that."
Sermonia and Medina sought guidance from STOKE Certified, a sustainability certification body specializing in surf and ski tourism.
"Alongside environmental protection, they recommended we promote the local culture and integrate the locals into the growth of Siargao," he relays.
Harana Surf Resort employs locals, offers competitive wages, grants price breaks to guests who volunteer on the island, champions environmental conservation, and partners with local charities and nonprofits.
Additionally, the resort embraces the community during their famous Saturday beach parties, fostering an inclusive atmosphere where residents and tourists intermingle.
"That's what keeps the energy laid-back," Sermonia says. "It's not merely tourists - it's everyone together."
Nurturing the next generation
Growing up in Siargao, Bonono spent his days on a stretch of sand called Big Wish Beach in Pacifico, a secluded coastal village approximately an hour north of General Luna.
Inquisitive but lacking the proper equipment, 9-year-old Bonono improvised with plywood till he could borrow a surfboard from friends.
He cherished surfing above school, which he abandoned at age 10 after harrowing experiences.
"I endured a tough time at school, which I was ashamed of," he confesses, adding that he didn't learn to read till age 16. "But actually, it inspired me to establish The Sun Crew."
Founded in 2017, The Sun Crew is a local charity offering surf lessons to children on the condition they attend school and participate in weekend beach clean-ups.
Bonono and Australian expat Hannah Bowyer initiated the endeavor after noticing kids skipping class to spectate tourists surf.
"I realized we could utilize surfing as a motive to lure them back to school," he explains.
The initiative, which started modestly, now supports over 1,000 children from neighboring villages, extending to include summer school, literacy programs, math tutoring, plastic waste collection projects, and women's leadership programs.
"They are the island's future, so we want to aid them in combining their interest in surfing with education and instill environmental values too," Bonono shares.
The Sun Crew welcomes tourists seeking volunteer opportunities in Siargao, Bonono adds.
Originally hailing from Manila, Kara Rosas touched down in Siargao in 2019 for a three-month stint as a volunteer at Bayatakan Farm Experience, a program that combined farming and cultural immersion.
During her time there, she crossed paths with initiative owner Analyn Dulpina, who had teamed up with a local snackbar located in Burgos, one of Siargao's northernmost towns.
Rosas, aged 27 at the time, aided in transforming this collaboration into an organization called Lokal Lab, which aimed to promote local produce and traditional livelihoods. The snackbar was a community space that attracted patrons seeking refuge from the main tourism area.
As part of the operation, Lokal Lab's co-founders, Mark and Iris, emphasized the importance of using at least 80% locally-sourced ingredients for their menu, uncovering the issue that 97% of Siargao's produce was imported despite the multitude of local farms.
To address this concern, they collaborated with Dulpina to establish a slow-food market in General Luna, which bridged connections between buyers, such as restaurants and hotels, and local producers.
Their objective was to create an economic ecosystem for the island's produce, safeguarding traditional jobs like farming and weaving. Rosas feared that unchecked tourism development would prompt locals to sell their land or abandon their communities due to escalating property prices.
She expressed concern over the potential for tourists to further gentrify the island and disregard its local culture. "We don't want these individuals to be excluded from progress," Rosas emphasized, drawing lessons from Bali's past where such gentrification had occurred.
To foster a self-sufficient island, Lokal Lab took various initiatives, including educating farmers in regenerative farming techniques, supporting local artisans, and organizing a youth-led storytelling initiative.
Visitors could engage with Lokal Lab's efforts at The Hub, a social enterprise based in General Luna. A revamped Filipino house served as the hub's community space and cafe, featuring farm-to-table cuisine, immersive events, and workshops.
Travelers also took part in hands-on farming experiences, cooking classes, and weaving sessions through Lokal Experience tours. Moreover, Lokal Lab had plans to establish Tropical Academy, a vocational school offering regenerative farming, carpentry, culinary, and hospitality skills training.
Their mission was to empower locals, enabling them to stay within their communities and launch their own businesses, taking control of their livelihoods.
Protecting the environment and managing plastic waste
Siargao boasts the Philippines' largest mangrove stand, covering over 4,800 hectares and offering refuge to rare and endangered species such as crocodiles, sea turtles, and the Philippine cockatoo.
Since 1996, the island and its surrounding waters have enjoyed protected status, yet enforcement remains a significant challenge.
Lady Carmel Litang, a 25-year-old activist for Siargao Environmental Awareness (SEA Movement), has noticed an uptick in waste management issues and plastic pollution on the main island, which had become exacerbated with the increase in tourism.
Litang became involved with SEA Movement in 2022, dedicated to promoting environmental stewardship, advocating for zero-waste alternatives, and educating locals and tourists on marine conservation.
She also led Halian SEAwikan, a program to protect sea turtles and organized weekly beach cleanups with local children. Collaborating with the Department of Environment and Natural Resources (DENR), she conducted conservation workshops to educate the local community.
Litang underlined the importance of individual responsibility, acknowledging that certain irresponsible tourists could not be controlled. However, she hoped responsible tourists would contribute positively to the island and its culture.
The future road
Siargao's residents remain hopeful amidst challenges caused by rapid tourism development.
The devastation of Typhoon Rai, known as Super Typhoon Odette in the Philippines, in December 2021, generated much-needed donations and aid for the island's restoration.
Moreover, a "Comprehensive Tourism Master Plan" had been developed in 2017, designed to address key issues like rising tourism, power shortages, waste management, and disaster resilience. However, implementation had yet to occur.
Felino A. Palafox, Jr., an award-winning Filipino architect, conveyed his disappointment at the delay in implementing the master plan, emphasizing the need for the government to prioritize sustainable development to prepare for future typhoons, earthquakes, and tsunamis.
Sermonia emphasized that timely execution of the master plan was crucial for the island to maintain balance and progress. "The community is resilient, but leadership must prioritize sustainable practices," he noted.
Addressing the challenges facing Siargao, Sermonia remarked that the island was at a critical juncture. "Large-scale resorts can be beneficial if they adopt eco-friendly practices and local communities feel involved in the growth process," he added.
Towards the end of the day, I totally agree that it's not just the kindness of the locals, but also the surf culture and its deep respect for nature that makes this island unique. If our leaders continue to appreciate and protect this culture, Siargao will be thriving.
Bonono shares this perspective.
"The community is making impressive progress — there's a genuine dedication to keeping the island's charm intact while ensuring progress benefits all," he notes.
"It's heartening to witness some of the efforts being made to transform this haven from a surfing hotspot into a blueprint for a sustainable, equitable community. We're excited to see more individuals join this cause," he concludes.
After the surge in tourism, Siargao's vibrant atmosphere continues to attract visitors, with annual arrivals almost tripling in less than a decade.
Harana Surf Resort, established in 2015 by Manila-based Filipinos, embodies the spirit of sustainability and community engagement, contributing to Siargao's eco-conscious growth.
