Sahara Desert devastates historic settlement and its scriptures
Upon the sun-drenched horizon of southern Mauritania, a struggle for preservation unfolds in the ancient town of Oualata, affectionately known as the "Shore of Eternity." This once bustling trading and religious center — one of a quartet of UNESCO-listed, fortified towns known as "ksour" — now holds storied treasures dating back to the Middle Ages.
Intricate acacia doors, adorned with local artwork, remain a captivating sight within the town. The five centuries-old manuscripts, a timeless bequest of cultural and literary heritage, reside within family libraries. Yet Oualata, situated near the Mali border, faces a daunting battle against the merciless conditions of the Sahara.
The latest rainy season's heaviness demonstrates its impact on the town, with dilapidated stone piles and gouged walls serving as stark reminders of the damage wrought. "Many houses have collapsed because of the rains," Khady expresses, standing beside her crumbling, inherited home. An exodus of townspeople only worsens the predicament, as abandoned houses decay, their owners long gone.
For years, Oualata's dwindling population has sought solace in distant job opportunities, leaving behind no one to maintain the precious, centuries-old constructions. The town's structures, coated in reddish mudbrick called banco, were intentionally designed to withstand the elements. However, maintenance work is necessary after each rainy season ceases. As a result, much of the old town now lies eerily vacant, with only a third of buildings still inhabited.
The biggest problem lingering over Oualata's imminent fate is the frightful desertification that plagues much of Mauritania, affecting around 80 percent of the country. According to the environment ministry, this scourge is triggered by "climate change (and) inappropriate operating practices." In the past, greenery flourished in the desert, but the cataclysmic desertification of the 1970s has since engulfed Oualata's mosque, forcing worshippers to pray on its rooftop rather than inside.
However, Oualata's enduring resilience shines through, with relics testifying to its former grandeur as a stops on the trans-Saharan caravan trade route and an Islamic learning center. One surviving library holds 223 manuscripts, the oldest dating back to the 14th century. The collection represents an invaluable trove for researchers, containing centuries-old writings whose survival once seemed precarious.
The library remains a sanctuary of knowledge for imams, who serve as repositories of almost a thousand years of knowledge, descended from a long line of Koran scholars. Although some books still show water stains and signs of decay, efforts have been made to protect this priceless heritage. For instance, Spain aided in establishing a library in Oualata in the 1990s, housing over 2,000 books that were restored and digitally preserved. The library's future, however, remains uncertain due to budget constraints.
Oualata's desolate beauty is lost on tourists, as the town lacks accommodations and is situated far from the next urban center. Despite the precarious circumstances, several initiatives aim to safeguard Oualata and its fellow ancient towns. Annually, a festival is held in one of the four towns to raise funds for renovations and projects fostering the towns' growth and deterring emigration. During twilight hours, the town comes alive as children revel in the cool air, and the legacy of centuries endures.
© 2025 AFP
- The struggle for preservation in Oualata, a UNESCO-listed town, extends to the realm of environmental science, as the town faces challenges due to the Sahara's harsh climate.
- The health and wellness of the townspeople are directly linked to the environment, as the effects of climate change have contributed to desertification in Mauritania.
- Travel enthusiasts interested in cultural experiences and lifestyle immersion may find Oualata, with its ancient manuscripts, a captivating destination in the realm of cultural travel.
- As space and astronomy enthusiasts gaze at the stars, they might ponder the fate of places like Oualata, which are battling against environmental changes and the passage of time.
- Lifestyle choices, such as seeking employment opportunities elsewhere, have contributed to the decline in population in Oualata, leading to an unfortunate cycle of decay in the town's historical structures.
