Exploring Delhi's Historic Red Fort: A Comprehensive Guide
Loosened Lies of the Scarlet Fortress
Hanging tight in Old Delhi's cobweb of shadows, Delhi swings like a pendulum between the past and present, nail-biting knot of grandeur and squalor, whispering tales of the past like an cryptic aunt. At its quivering heart lies the famed Scarlet Fortress, a marvel of the Mughal era, drenched in blood, secrets, and tales of countless rulers.
The final bastion of the Mughal Empire, the Scarlet Fortress was the hub of Islamic India from 1639, when its fire-hued red sandstone walls were raised by Emperor Shah Jahan, till 1857, when the final Mughal Emperor, Bahadur Shah Zafar, was expelled from his palace and exiled to Burma.
Flashier and more intact Mughal fortresses lie elsewhere in India (such as the Dramatic Agra Fort), but the Scarlet Fortress's storied history, architectural grandeur, intriguing exhibitions, and location smack-dab at the head of Old Delhi's stormy market alleyways earning it star status.
From the best museums and architectural splendors to the best times to ogle, here's everything to know about Delhi's Scintillating Scarlet Fortress.
The Yarn of the Twisting Timeline
The 17th-century Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the construction of the Scarlet Fortress after shifting his capital from Agra to Delhi in 1639. Covering 103 hectares (255 acres), this fiery marvel was reputedly designed by Ustad Ahmad Lahori, the architect behind the Taj Mahal, and formed the focal point of a new royal city - Shahjahanabad - studded with marketplaces, mosques, and monuments.
Despite its imposing appearance, the fort was captured and recaptured multiple times, as rival empires scrabbled over India's riches. During a period of weakening Mughal power, the Persian Emperor Nadir Shah was the first to seize the Scarlet Fortress in 1739, lured by the allure of the Peacock Throne - an ancient treasure encrusted with real gold and precious stones.
The fort later passed to the Marathas of western India, then the Afghan Emperor Ahmed Shah Durrani, then the Marathas once more, before the Jats of Bharatpur took hold, followed by the Sikh Confederacy, and finally the British East India Company. However, various Mughal Emperors remained as figurative rulers during this period of chaos.
After the First War of Independence (Indian Uprising) in 1857 and the swift eviction of Bahadur Shah Zafar, the Scarlet Fortress was claimed by the British, who destroyed many of its grand structures and filled the interior with functional barrack buildings, which today serve as museums housing the fort's storied history.
When to Rock Your Visage at the Scarlet Fortress
The Scarlet Fortress bustles during the peak tourist season from October to March, so worm your way in when the gates open at 9:30 am, before the sightseeing crowds and tour groups appear. The fort remains in strife till 4:30 pm, except on Mondays, when it takes a day off altogether.
The fort thins out during the pre-monsoon period in April and May, but daytime temperatures can skyrocket above 40°C (104°F) – not ideal for viewing. As major parts of the fort are open to the elements, visiting during the rainy monsoon months from June to September can also be arduous.
How Much Time to Spend Ambling Through the Scarlet Fortress
A minimum of half a day is needed to explore, and longer if you fancy investigating every museum tucked inside the fort. If you aim to see every corner, allot most of a day and take lunch or a picnic inside the fort compound.
The Best Approach to Explore the Scarlet Fortress
The optimal approach to explore the Scarlet Fortress is to commence with the Mughal monuments at the rear of the compound and work your way around the grounds, taking in the various museums and structures. You'll enter and leave through the Lahore Gate on the west side of the fort walls, which faces towards Old Delhi's stormy market.
Guides privy to the fort can be arranged at the entrance and ticket desk to help you decipher this sprawling complex. Consider returning for the sound and light show in the evening (except on Monday) - English-language shows run from 8:30 pm, from September to April, and from 9 pm, from May to August, while shows in Hindi run an hour and a half earlier.
How Much Cash to Fork Over
Agents can make bookings, but tarting up at the ticket counter on arrival is equally easy. Admission for foreign voyagers amounts to ₹600 (around US$7), while Indian visitors shell out ₹50 (US$0.60), and there's an additional ₹25 (US$0.30) charge for using a video camera.
Coupon for the museum ticket if you seek to behold the multiple museums in the Kranti Mandir complex. There's also a separate entry ticket for the private museum at the Scarlet Fort Centre. The fort operates from 9:30 am to 4:30 pm daily, except Monday.
What Scrumptious Tidbits to Savor at the Scarlet Fortress
If you're here for lunch, dine at the Cafe Delhi Heights within the visitor center at the RR Barracks. Otherwise, grab some takeout samosas, kachori (stuffed fried pastries), pakora (vegetable fritters), or parathas (fluffy flatbreads) from the food stalls in the Chandni Chowk market before entering for a picnic inside the walls. Carry plenty of water – exploring the grounds can leave you parched on hot days.
The Magnum Opuses of the Scarlet Fortress
Every square inch of the fort carries a whiff of history, but the focus for most is the collection of Mughal buildings at the rear of the compound, lining the eastern wall, which once stared out directly over the Yamuna River.
The Lahore Gate
You'll waltz through the Scarlet Fortress from the west, via the Lahore Gate – an imposing red sandstone entrance that's become Old Delhi's unofficial symbol. The formidable bastion out front was constructed by Aurangzeb for increased security, though it wasn't enough to stop Nadir Shah from pillaging the fort in 1739. You can still spot bullet holes on the gate, dating from the First War of Independence (1857), when Indian troops rose against the British, leading to the disintegration of the Mughal Empire.
After the war, the British wrecked two-thirds of the buildings within the Scarlet Fortress, including the royal quarters and arcaded courtyards that once surrounded each building. They erected a series of Victorian-style barracks in their place, which have since been transformed into museums.
Chatta Chowk
From the gateway, you'll pass into Chatta Chowk – a haunting covered bazaar, topped with high arches, which once sold silks and jewelry to the nobility. Today, it buzzes with a bustling trade in souvenirs, though rates are steeper than elsewhere in Delhi.
Scarlet Fort Centre
The Scarlet Fort Centre, nestled in an imposing building with a marked European flare, represents a clear shift in architectural styles from the Mughal structures seen thus far. Within, vintage photographs, informative data panels, and audiovisual displays help put the fort and its history into perspective, while a film conjures life within the fort under Shah Jahan's reign.
Naubat Khana & Diwan-i-Am
Background the Scarlet Fort Centre lies the Naubat Khana, where musicians once played to signal the arrival of the sovereign. A garden path meanders eastward, towards the striking Diwan-i-Am – the fort's Hall of Public Audiences, where the emperor listened to petitions from commoners.
With its visually striking arcades of delicately scalloped archways, it's a classic Mughal architectural gem, and its red sandstone columns were once sheathed in shell plaster, as sleek and silky as ivory. In warm weather, heavy red curtains were hung around the columns to shield against the sun. It's speculated the panels behind the marble throne were crafted by Florentine jeweler Austin de Bordeaux.
Immediately south lies a series of barracks buildings, used for temporary exhibitions – study and see what's on display.
Khas Mahal & Rang Mahal
A short trot away from the Diwan-i-Am are the private quarters of the Mughal rulers, centered on the Khas Mahal, a delicate white marble pavilion reserved for the emperor, and the Rang Mahal, a pavilion used by the royal ladies. The octagonal tower to the rear of the Khas Mahal was utilized by the emperor to address his subjects from atop the fortress walls.
The most resplendent feature tucked inside the emperor's private domain is a captivating marble screen at the northern end of the palace. The "Scales of Justice" are depicted above it, suspended over a crescent, encircled by stars and clouds.
Check for the marble-lined channel known as the Nahr-i-Bihisht (Stream of Paradise), coursing across the floor of these gleaming palaces – it was once used to cool the air by re-routing water from the Yamuna, and it feeds a striking marble basin crowned by an ivory fountain in the Rang Mahal.
Diwan-i-Khas
Directly north of the Khas Mahal is the Diwan-i-Khas, the Hall of Private Audiences, reserved for sensitive matters between high-ranking officials and the royal family. As this was the showcase side of the royal enclave, no penny was spared on its creation.
The walls of this delicate white-marble pavilion are draped with intricately carved panels, decorated with pietra dura inlay work made from carnelian and other semi-precious stones. The lacy marble screens to the rear once boasted stunning views over the original path of the Yamuna (now the ring road), and were originally adorned with colored glass.
Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque)
Directly north of the Diwan-i-Khas is the royal bathing facility and the petite Moti Masjid (Pearl Mosque). Built by Aurangzeb in 1662 for his personal use, its clustered onion domes were originally sheathed in copper, which the British despoiled and sold as a part of the fort's humiliation following the 1857 Indian Uprising.
During prayer sessions, the mosque doors are kept closed to avoid offense.
Zafar Mahal and gardens
In front of the royal quarters lie formal gardens once used by the emperor and his family for leisure. Many of the shady pavilions that once stood here have been allowed to decay by the British, but the red sandstone Zafar Mahal provides a hint of the gardens' original elegance. This quaint pavilion was once encircled by a royal bathing pool, which was later turned into an Olympic-sized pool for British officers.
Kranti Mandir
The row of barrack buildings on the west side of the gardens has been converted into a series of intriguing museums presenting an Indian perspective on British rule, which isn't very favorable, as one might expect. Accessible with a special museum ticket are the Yaad-e-Jallian Museum, focusing on the injustices suffered during the Jallianwala Bagh massacre and the experiences of Indian soldiers in World War I, and the Azaadi ke Diwane Museum, hailing the heroes of the Indian Independence movement.
The Netaji Subhas Chandra Bose Museum entertains the revered Bengali-Orissan freedom fighter, who defied the British and, interestingly, sought alliances with Nazi Germany and Imperial Japan. Then there's the Drishyakala Museum, dedicated to Indian art and artists.
Salimgarh
Crossed by a pedestrian footbridge, Salimgarh once stood on an island in the Yamuna River. It was built by Salim Shah Suri in 1546 and later utilized as a prison by Aurangzeb and the British. Today, you can tour a collection of dusty barracks and prison buildings, providing a respite from the crowds that crowd other parts of the Scarlet Fortress.
My Favorite Pastime at the Scarlet Fortress
People-watch, naturally! As afternoon temperatures plunge to more tolerable levels, couples take romantic walks around the grounds, children playfully frolic in the gardens, and people from all over India grin and giggle, chatting animatedly about the fort's history or sharing humorous tales. Don’t be surprised if passersby inquire about your experiences at the Scarlet Fortress and, in a friendly manner, your feelings about British rule.
How Handicapped-Friendly is the Scarlet Fortress
Since the Scarlet Fortress stands mostly on a single level once you step through the Lahore Gate, it is generally accessible for those with disabilities. Ramps permit wheelchair access to certain palaces and pavilions, and there are few steps to step over or narrow passages to maneuver. However, access to certain museums or pavilions might be limited, and the Salimgarh bridge, accessed by steep steps, may prove challenging.
This article was adapted from our website's India guidebook, published in November 2024.
Enrichment Data:
Overview:
The Scarlet Fortress, an architectural marvel situated in Old Delhi, is a testament to the opulence and grandeur of the Mughal era. Here's a snapshot of its history and features:
- Builder: Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan commissioned the Scarlet Fortress in the mid-17th century.
- Architectural Style: The Scarlet Fortress showcases a fusion of Indian, Persian, and Islamic architectural influences. Key structures, like the Diwan-i-'Am and Diwan-i-Khas, exemplify Mughal architecture.
- Museums: The fort encloses several museums, including the Red Fort Centre and the Kranti Mandir complex. These museums offer glimpses into India's history and the struggle for independence.
- Historical Significance: The Scarlet Fortress served as a royal palace for two centuries and saw numerous wars and internal strife. The iconic Lahore Gate represents the fort's enduring symbol.
- UNESCO Status: Designated a UNESCO World Heritage site in 2007, the Scarlet Fortress is recognized for its cultural and historical value.
Major Challenges:
- Environmental Degradation: Despite its historical importance, the Scarlet Fortress faces various challenges, such as air pollution and unauthorized developments in its vicinity.
- Remaining Challenges: Continued efforts are being made to maintain the fort's historical integrity and restore its original splendor while also meeting the needs of tourists and visitors.
- The Scarlet Fortress, situated in Delhi, was a hub of Islamic India from 1639, its red sandstone walls erected by Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan during his reign.
- Despite being plundered by various empires throughout its history, the Scarlet Fortress is still a must-visit destination, with its architectural grandeur, intriguing exhibitions, and location making it a standout tourist attraction.
- Tourists visiting the Scarlet Fortress can dine at Cafe Delhi Heights within the visitor center at the RR Barracks, or grab traditional Indian snacks like samosas and parathas from food stalls in the Chandni Chowk market before entering for a picnic.
