Experience a 75-hour opulent train journey traversing the core of Australia's desert wilderness.
A vast expanse of deserts and semi-arid wilderness, covering around 80% of the country's interior, is a harsh, uncrowded territory roughly equivalent to seven times the size of Texas. The merciless weather here, with extreme temperatures both day and night, is home to the world's largest population of wild camels. Apart from them, the area remains largely uninhabited.
This makes it an ideal location to explore untouched nature at its purest: breathtaking blue skies, sunsets that last for hours, and some of the most remarkable landscapes on the planet.
However, you don't have to endure hardships to visit this isolated region.
I opted for a comfortable journey across the outback: riding on an air-conditioned luxury sleeper train called The Ghan.
The Ghan is an epic transcontinental journey, stretching over 1,851 miles (2,979 kilometers) and various climate zones, traversing from tropical Darwin at Australia's "top end" to the verdant hills of Adelaide on the southern Indian Ocean.
Navigating the Ghan
The biannual service caters to northward or southward travel, providing year-round service (excluding December through February, the hottest months during the southern hemisphere’s summer).
Reaching a top speed of 71 miles (115 kilometers) per hour, the train would complete the journey in approximately one and a half days if it were non-stop.
However, that's not an option – The Ghan is not a commuter rail line. Instead, it's a tourist train that functions like a leisurely cruise ship on rails, offering numerous extended stopovers and guided excursions across the route.
Various itineraries cater to diverse preferences, depending on the starting point, desired length of stay, and preferred destinations.
Even within the sparsely populated outback, several quaint towns can be discovered while traveling on The Ghan. These settlements are typically isolated, being hundreds of miles away from any significant urban centers.
These settlements offer insights into Australia's rich Aboriginal history and illuminate the challenges faced by European settlers during their exploration of this hostile desert landscape in the 19th century.
The Ghan provides an authentic experience of the region's breathtaking wilderness and heritage without demanding any physical exertion, making it an unforgettable bucket-list adventure for avid travelers, Australian and foreign alike.
Brooke Mitchell's vacation on The Ghan appeared to have been a long-awaited dream. Twelve years prior, Mitchell and her spouse had stumbled upon their first glimpse of the outback during a domestic flight from Melbourne.
“We spotted the vast, barren land out the airplane window,” Mitchell shared. “And we thought, this is something we want to explore.”
She booked the lengthiest journey possible: the "Ghan Expedition," a southward, three-night tour initiating from Darwin. The train halted in Katherine, Alice Springs, and Coober Pedy before arriving in Adelaide on the fourth day, spanning 75 hours of travel.
Luxury on Rolling Stilettos
On any given day, The Ghan stands as one of the longest passenger trains globally. Its average length extends over 900 meters (approximately half a mile). Carriages connect or disconnect based on the number of guests' bookings.
My train comprised 30 carriages, including two locomotives, three dining carriages, three bar carriages, one platinum club carriage, and sleeping compartments for passengers and staff.
Passengers could choose between two service classes: platinum and gold.
The platinum category is more pricey and boasts larger cabins and an exclusive, private dining carriage for guests.
However, the gold class is the most popular choice, and is the only service offering single rooms for solo travelers.
Couples could book a gold twin cabin that incorporated an en-suite bathroom and a plush, extended lounge chair convertible into bunk beds at night.
Everything on the Ghan relays the charm of the golden age of train travel. The older gold cabins feature antique brass handles, warm earth-tone interiors, and walnut wood-paneled walls. The vintage rooms do include a dust-like scent, but that adds to their distinctive character.
It seemed like we were journeying in a fancy yet slightly dated, slightly cramped hotel on wheels.
And it doesn't come cheap. The price of a gold-class double occupancy cabin starts at roughly $2,800 per person for a three-night trip on "the Ghan Expedition." Platinum class commences at more than $4,900 per person for the same duration.
Kangaroo Kebabs?
Food is one of the Ghan's highlights.
Most passengers dined at the Queen Adelaide Restaurant, a carriage that embodies Art Deco design accents and linen-covered tables.
Meals on board are a multi-course affair, with seasonally changing menus that reflect the surrounding landscapes. The menu offers local favorites, such as kangaroo loin, grilled saltwater barramundi, and crocodile dumplings.
Additionally, passengers will not be charged for meals or beverages onboard, and there's always ample supply of alcohol available for guests who would like to indulge.
Bev Shriver was fond of the Ghan's bar car, which became known as the Explorer's Lounge.
"Many passengers begin and end their days there," Shriver shared. "There's an inviting atmosphere, with big, curved sofas, perfect for playing board games, curling up with a book, or simply gazing out the massive windows that stretch the length of the carriage."
There is Wi-Fi onboard, technically. But, similar to mobile coverage in the outback, it's unavailable in the most remote areas, making the Ghan an escape from modern technology.
Maggie hopped on the Ghan alongside two pals from Brisbane, but spent a considerable chunk of her ride chatting up fellow travelers, all strangers.
"I adore the entire emptiness of the Outback," Buldo shared.
"It's bloody amazing."
The breathtaking scenery of Australia's vast wilderness as seen from the Ghan, that emptiness is unquestionably soothing. And the staff appear to take delight in spoiling the guests.
However, take heed adventurers, there's not much physical exertion required in this lengthy odyssey. The excursions provide an excellent opportunity to stretch your legs, but don't envision breaking a sweat.
Maybe that's intentional.
The majority of Ghan passengers are in their sixties and seventies, as per Thomas Borthwick, the guest relations manager for Journey Beyond, the company that operates the train.
With a limited number of seats and runs, many reservations are booked well ahead of time, sometimes years in advance.
And despite the steep price tag, the demand for the Ghan is sky-high.
Many riders are train enthusiasts eager to learn more about railways' role in early internal exploration and development of Australia.
Desert Express
The Ghan started its journey between Adelaide and Alice Springs in 1929. The track was expanded to Darwin in 2004, creating Australia's first north-south transcontinental railway link.
Its name is an abbreviation of “Afghanistan,” honoring South Asian immigrants who came to Australia in the 1800s.
These immigrants brought camels, an animal crucial for exploring the remote Australian Outback.
The dromedary – nicknamed the "ship of the desert" – was the only animal with the strength and endurance to overcome the harsh conditions.
Australia's immigrant cameleers laid the groundwork for outback exploration, constructing roads and railways, including those that paved the way for the current Ghan route.
The Ghan's logo still showcases a single-humped camel and cameleer, most notably on the iconic red locomotive.
Modern-day camel driver
It was there that I met Graham Dadleh.
The 60-year-old is one of two drivers who alternate in charge during the Ghan's three-night journey.
Dadleh revealed that he has traversed over 60,000 miles (100,000 kilometers) across Australia annually since starting his career with the railways four decades ago.
I wondered if he ever grew tired of navigating the emptiness of the Outback.
"Never," Dadleh answered. "I love it."
It's personal pride and a deep family connection to the Outback that keeps him going, Dadleh shared.
Dadleh's great-grandfather was an Afghan immigrant who came to Australia with camels, he said.
Balooch Dadleh immigrated to South Australia and by 1902 had settled in the small outback town of Marree, according to a written account in the book “Australia’s Muslim Cameleers” by Philip Jones and Anna Kenny.
By 1927, Balooch Dadleh owned 35 camels and led teams that transported supplies on them between outback towns in South Australia and Queensland.
Balooch's son – Dadleh's grandfather – also worked on camel farms in Australia.
"The Ghan holds a special place in my heart," said Dadleh. "It's a big deal to me. I see myself as a modern-day cameleer."
Nowadays, Dadleh spends a good portion of his time in the locomotive avoiding camels.
Australia has an estimated 1 million feral camels still roaming the deserts of the Outback, also descendants from the early immigrants of the 1800s.
Drivers scan the horizon constantly, Dadleh said, to ensure their trains don't hit animals too close to the tracks.
Fortunately, no disastrous encounters occurred.
By late afternoon on the fourth day, the Ghan rolls into Adelaide's train terminal, finishing its journey.
Most passengers agreed that journeying through the wild Australian Outback makes for an unforgettable experience.
For Dadleh, it's just another day at work – no matter how monotonous it may seem.
"Nothing is ever the same from trip to trip. The weather, wildlife, the night skies," Dadleh said.
"It's one of the greatest workplaces available."
This luxurious journey on The Ghan allows travelers to explore the outback's untouched nature without enduring hardships. The train traverses through diverse climate zones, from tropical Darwin to the verdant hills of Adelaide, all while providing guests with comfortable accommodations and guided excursions.
Ideal for avid travelers, The Ghan provides an authentic experience of Australia's breathtaking wilderness and heritage, without requiring any physical exertion. This unforgettable bucket-list adventure showcases the vastness of the Australian Outback and its rich history, from the challenges faced by early European settlers to the role of South Asian immigrants and their camels in outback exploration.
